So my trip to Nepal and India did not go as planned. I was unfortunately never able to make it out of Nepal due to illness. After my last post, we went river rafting on the Trisuli River outside of Kathmandu. To get there, we had to take a packed bus headed for a town called Chitwan. The mountain roads are very narrow, barely two lanes wide, and have huge drop offs on one side. Many of the drop offs are not barricaded, and I assume occassionally cars fall. The drivers on these roads are crazy and will pass cars by crosing into the wrong lanes. To warn cars around the corner that both lanes are occupied, they use their horn, but it is still a very risky manuveur.
Our rafting place was along the route to Chitwan, so we simply got out when needed. Rafting was a lot of fun. The river isn't particularly difficult, so it was very well suited for our group's ability. About halfway through we stopped for lunch, which wasn't that good. I only ate bread and bananas because everything else was fresh vegetables. After lunch we continued on down the river until the end of the route.
To get back to Kathmandu, we had to take another bus. The tour company we used to book the rafting had given the rafting company some extra money to get us a bus back. So our instructors had to go out on the very narrow mountain road and flag us down a bus, which seemed pretty much standard protocol. They finally were able to flag down a bus, and I got on immediately since I wasn't feeling to well. Unfortunately, no one else got on, and one of the people on the bus started getting into a dispute with one of our rafting guys. The bus started to pull away, with me still on it and the rest of my friends not. Finally, some one on the bus pushed me towards the entrance and thankfully forced me off the bus. Second time around, we all got on the bus and were on our way back to Kathmandu.
On the bus ride back, Kendal, Jeremy, and I all got horribly sick. Kendal had started getting sick before the ride, and I had been sick the previous night, but the bus ride seemed to make it so much worse. We sat in the back, vomiting the entire ride. There was a little boy on the bus, who I assume was the son of the driver, who kept bringing us plastic bags and sat with us, which I have no idea why he would want to do that. We were rather miserable. About half way through the four our bus ride, I stopped throwing up and just wanted to lay down. Due to the lack of space, at some point during the ride I woke up with the little boy sleeping on top of me. He had been sitting next to me, but I think I invaded his space and he just eventually fell asleep on me. According to my friends it was cute, but I didn't really car, I just needed sleep.
We got off the bus as soon as possible, still very sick. We managed to flag down a cab and after sitting in traffic for forever, we got back to the hotel. By now, Kevin was also sick. We would later reason through process of elimination that we had probably had some contaminated fresh squeezed orange juice, but we will never no for sure. Kendal seemed to get better fast, but I spent the entire night sick. Thankfully, Kendal and Max stayed up with me and took care of me. Vomiting for that long was really having its toll on me, mentally and physically, and their support really helped. They eventually got me to listen to my iPod to calm down and I was able to fall asleep.
The next day, we all spent the day pretty much in bed. Max and Daniel left us to go spend a night with a local family Max was connected with. The rest of us were too sick to go. We tried to go out and get lunch and dinner, but none of us were too hungry. We could barely eat dinner and ended up having it boxed up and giving it away to the street kids.
The following day, Max and Daniel returned. Our original plan was to go to Chitwan that day. I didn't want to leave Kathmandu because I still felt pretty miserable, but the group decided to press on. Instead of taking a bus there, we took a van type car, which I liked a lot better, but I was the only one. We had to stop about halfway there because of a protest, but once that was over we were on our way again. I tried to sleep the entire ride. When we got to Chitwan, we tried to get a taxi to our hotel, but they were asking too much money, so we took an incredibly over packed bus to some other location. From there, we had to take a jeep to the area of our hotel. The driver brought us to the wrong hotel first because he had a deal with another to bring them customers, but we eventually got to where we were going. Once we got there and checked in, I just went right to bed because I had had enough.
The next day the group made plans to go on a canoe ride, a hike, and an elephant ride. The first two activities were in the morning, and I passed on them because I still felt sick and wanted to get better, so I could enjoy the rest of the trip. I was able to eat a little lunch and then went on the elephant ride that afternoon. We got to see rhinos, some birds, and two types of deer in the Chitwan National Preserve which was nice, but the elephant ride is incredibly uncomfortable. Instead of riding the elephant, they place a wooden basket-like thing on top of the elephant and four people ride in that. We were constantly bumping into the wood and rocking. It wasn't too enjoyable. We got to see the local village though, which was interesting.
Chitwan is a pretty small town, and we were very far removed from the main section. Basically, we were in the middle of nowhere, which I really didn't like because I felt like I was just getting sicker. I had eaten basically nothing for three days at this point and wasn't drinking either. Chitwan is also very dirty, probably because it floods every year in the wet season, so it smelled bad. It was not the place to get better. Kendal and Max luckily food the only doctor in town, and he made a late afternoon house call to my hotel room. He said it looked like I had a protozoa and bacterial infection in my stomach, probably from food, and he gave me a shot and some medications. I felt relieved after that, and thought I could finally get better. We all went out to dinner after that, where I forced down some food I really didn't want to eat. Afterwards, I took the medication he gave me. Unfortunately, the medicine didn't stay down for long.
By the time we got back to our hotel room, I was vomiting again, so Jeremy went and found the doctor. He said I was probably too dehydrated to eat or drink, so next thing I know I have an IV in my arm. The doctor stayed until one in the morning giving me two IVs and injectable antibiotics. Keep in mind this is all occuring in a room in the "jungle lodge" in the middle of no where. The doctor told me two weeks before he had six New Zealanders hooked up to IVs in the same lodge. I again felt better. Now that I had some helpful IV, I thought, I could finally get better. The doctor advise we stay in Chitwan one more day, so I could get better. We tentatively agreed.
The next morning, the doctor returned to give me one more shot and remove the IV. The whole morning the group had been trying to convince me to leave for Pokhara that day, but I told them I didn't want to go. The doctor, sensing our groups urgency, said I could probably leave today, and I no longer had any reason to stay, so I unwillingly decided to leave for Pokhara. The ride to Pokhara almost rivaled the ride home from river rafting in terms of misery. That morning I had managed to eat and drink a little, but the bus we were on was so bumpy, loud, and uncomfortable, plus the roads are so windy, that I just felt awful. By the time we stopped halfway, I couldn't handle it anymore. I lost it. I was so sick, miserable, hungry and thirsty, and unable to do anything about it. I just wanted to go home. I couldn't do anything about it then, but I knew I couldn't keep moving and get better and it became clear the group wasn't going to slow down. Everyone else who had been sick had gotten better relatively well. I, for whatever reason, wasn't getting better.
Once we got to Pokhara, we got a cab to some restaurant where I threw up again. I just laid down on chairs until everyone ate, and the boys found us a hotel. It took forever, and I was getting increasingly cranky with the situation. Tensions were running high. Finally, they came back with a hotel where I proceeded to crawl into bed and sleep.
Later that evening, Jeremy brought me back some chicken noodle soup because I still wasn't eating or drinking nearly enough. It was the most amazing thing I think I have ever eaten, except it to did not stay down. I was becoming hopeless. We made plans to get me back to Sharjah as it was becoming apparent I wasn't getting better. There are planes from Pokhara to Kathmandu and from there I could fly home. It sounded like a good plan. Everyone went out to explore the city that first night, but Jeremy stayed with me. I was once again having a rough time dealing with what was going on and he sat with me until I fell asleep, for which I am very thankful.
The next day I spent in bed. Luckily, I had brought a very long book and got to read most of it. I ate a little egg and some more soup, but was afraid to eat too much for fear of vomiting. I did manage to get out of bed to make plane reservations and call home. Aside from that, I didn't move much. They tried to keep me included in what was going on, but they also wanted to enjoy their vacation, and I was jealous they could go off and do fun things. I was just too sick.
Finally, the next day I got up at 7:30 to catch my 9:30 flight out of Pokhara. Jeremy went with me to the tiny airport. At this point, I was eating only pretzel since the salt seemed to be all I could handle with liquids. I was very weak and still dehydrated. Jeremy wanted with me until I had to go through security.
My flight got delayed an hour because of fog in Kathmandu, and I was afraid I would miss my connecting flight. When we landed in Kathmandu, they bused us off the tarmac to a place away from the main airport to get our bags. I could have walked to the airport but was so weak I hired a cab from 100 ruppes (about $1.20). The guy wanted 200 rupees, but I got him down. When I went to leave, I decided to give him 120 rupees because I figured he could use it more than me. He looked at it and immediately demanded 150. I was so angry at him. I tried to do a nice thing for him and he was trying to take advantage of it. I just yelled at him and got out.
Then they wouldn't let me in the airport at Kathmandu because I didn't have a physical ticket. I had to argue with security that I did indeed have a ticket, it just wasn't in my hand. They wouldn't believe me for the longest time but finally let me in. Check in went smoothly, and I got a window seat. Customs out of the country cost me 1700 rupees in exit tax which again annoyed me, but I was at the point that I would throw money at anyone if it would just get me home. After all that, I hung out in the main area for as long as I could before going through the last of security. They had a plasma screen with animal planet on, so I had something to watch. Before going through security, I discarded my water bottle from which I had been sipping and was very angry when I say they don't confiscate water bottles in line there.
Anyway, I finally got on the plane; it was a lot bigger than the one we took but completely packed. I was one of the first one's on and hoped my seat would remain empty, but I ended up having two seat mates. Halfway through, one of the stewards approached me and asked if I wanted to change seats. I was really confused because I hadn't made any indication that I wanted to but I said that it would be great if I could. So he checked, and eventually moved me up the the front row. I had the entire row to myself. Every other row was packed with three people each. The stewards also paid more attention to me, brought me water, and helped me out. It was nice, but strange.
I didn't understand why he choose to move me until the end of the flight when we all got off. I was one of only 5 girls out of the 200 people on the plane and the only white person on the whole plane. I couldn't tell if he moved me because I was white, or because I was the only woman obviously traveling alone, or maybe I just looked that sick. All of the explanations made me a little uneasy, and though I'm still glad he moved me, I don't like the special treatment, or at least why I may have recieved it.
When we all got off, all the men were ushered into various groups for companies (I think they were all coming to work here). The recruiters were so confused when I emerged from this group of people. It was very amusing. I exchanged my remaining 6990 rupees and got 250 dirhams. Bader was supposed to pick me up and bring me to the hospital, so I went to call him. As if I didn't have enough problems, cell phone was dead, so I had to find an etisalat (cell phone company) stand to charge my phone and call Bader. My plane had been delayed and by the time I was able to turn my phone on and call, I was an hour late. Luckily, he was in Dubai and came and got me.
We went to McDonalds (never had such a good burger from mcDonalds, even if I couldn't finish it all) and then to the hospital, which was the most tramautizing experience. My doctor was apparently from the land where people don't talk loud enough to be heard, and she had to repeat everything for me to be able to understand her. The nurses gave my so many shots without telling me what the were. I literally had to yell at the nurses to get them to tell me what they were giving me. Then, they couldn't get the IV in my hand. They were scraping the needle under my skin, against my bone and other body things, it hurt so much. I had to yell at them to stop. Bader, who was right outside, said he could year me yelling at them. They were so imcompetent. Then, they finally got the IV in the other hand, but some how missed the vein unknowingly, so all the IV liquid got pumped under my skin instead of in the vein. So then, I had a golf ball sized bump on my wrist. It looked ridiculous. To fix that, they put some sort of magnesium sulfate wrap on my hand which smelled so awful. Yea, I'm never going to that hospital again.
One good thing they did though is that they figured out I couldn't eat and was still throwing up because of stomach ulcers caused by the initial vomiting. So they gave me a ton of ulcer medication, and I've been eating like crazy ever since. It's amazing.
I spent that night in a hotel because it was too late at night to deal with the paperwork and issues I would encounter if I returned to AUS a week before I said I would. I was in shock because the room had a huge bed which was so comfortable, a flat screen TV, A/C, a fridge, and those little bars of soap. I was in heaven and fell asleep immediately. This hotel even served breakfast in the morning. I took a luxurious shower, watched TV, and relaxed. I didn't want to leave, but I got back to campus the next day and after some bickering, they agreed to let my into my dorm (but only for 10 minutes) to get my stuff and I am currently living in another dorm until Dec. 12. The dorm I'm in right now is so much nicer than my other one. I think because its newer, but the rooms are nicer and everything else is to.
Since then I haven't really left my room. My life pretty much consists of sleeping and eating. I tried to get off campus today to get some supplies, but the taxi I called never showed. So I am once again reminded of why the UAE annoys me so much. Nepal may have been smelly, dirty, and I may have gotten horribly sick there, but I didn't meet one mean person. Ever since returning to the UAE, everyone I meet has an attitude and no one is nice. Everyone at the airport was stuffy and aloof and the attitudes in general are unkind. I'm glad to be back to normalcy, but I miss the laid-back and kind attitudes of the Nepalese.
I've been feeling considerably better, but of course, I now also have a cold that some of us had on the trip. I'm all right though. At least I'm not sitting on bouncy bus on long, windy mountain roads. I'm a little annoyed because I think it was the ulcers that must have made me so sick. Since I've been medicating them, I've been feeling great. If only I could have gotten these medications in Nepal, I could still be on the trip. But it's too late now. If I had stayed, I'd still be sick and miserable. The only way to get better was to come home. It's unfortunate, but it's what I had to do.
Since reflecting on this, I realize how lucky I am. I got out. I got to get to better medicine, cleaner places. I just keep thinking about all those who don't have that option. I asked the doctor in Chitwan about the locals and if they get sick. He said the get sick all the time. So here I am, using Western medicine and good food to get better when dozens and hundreds of local villagers in Nepal have to get better off little or no medication, eating the same food that probably made them sick. I feel so lucky and so upset at the same time about this. It really isn't fair. I don't deserve to get better any more than any of them do. I hate to admit it, but like on the plane, the color of my skin and where I come from has once again come to my rescue. It's not fair and it's not right.
On a happier note, its been raining here. We had a huge storm my first night back with thunder and lightning which was amazing. And it's somewhat chilly here. A lot seems to be changing quickly.
Since going through all of this, I miss home more than ever. I can't wait to be back to my family, friends, and animals. Back to where things really make sense and where I feel at home. Twenty five days left!
-Lindsay
I will be posting pictures at a later date.